Cosmelan is a highly effective, medical mesoestetic depigmentation therapy that regulates melanin production to reduce and eliminate pigmentation, brightening and evening out skin tone while lowering the risk of new pigment spots forming. It is also effective for melasma, chloasma and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Cosmelan is a highly effective depigmentation therapy that regulates melanin production in the skin, brightening and evening out skin tone, reducing and eliminating pigment spots and sun-induced pigmentation, and lowering the risk of new spots forming. It is one of the most extensively researched depigmentation protocols used for melasma and chloasma.
The treatment is also used in intensive anti-acne and anti-ageing therapies — it restores balance to oily and combination skin, regulates sebum secretion and stimulates collagen renewal. The therapy is divided into an in-clinic phase (application of a potent mask) and a home-care phase (treatment with Cosmelan 2 cream). To achieve the intended results, the full two-step therapy must be completed.
Cosmelan is the medical cornerstone of pigmentation and melasma therapy at Velvet Skin Clinic. It is especially effective for melasma (chloasma) and hormonal pigmentation, where light-based methods can be risky. When the pigmentation is vascular or sun-induced and light-based treatment is indicated, take a look at laser pigmentation removal. We often combine both methods within a single treatment plan.
Cosmelan pairs well with brightening peels — such as the Vitamin C DermaQuest peel as antioxidant support. You will find the full map of acids in our chemical peels hub. The choice of method is made by a specialist after assessing the type and depth of the pigmentation.
Source: Versum and Booksy reports, as of 30.06.2026. Data for the family of pigmentation and melasma therapies at Velvet Skin Clinic (laser therapy, brightening peels, Cosmelan); approximate matching. Cosmelan is the medical depigmentation protocol within this family. No revenue data included.
On one hand, it corrects the visible appearance of pigmentation by eliminating excess melanin; on the other, it controls its overproduction, lowering the risk of new pigment spots appearing.
The active substances inhibit tyrosinase — the key enzyme in melanogenesis — and hinder the migration of melanosomes to keratinocytes, limiting UV-driven stimulation.
The Cosmelan 1 mask, applied in the clinic (3–12 hours), plus the Cosmelan 2 home-care cream — this combination is what determines how long the depigmentation effect lasts.
The formula includes kojic acid, arbutin, phytic acid, azelaic acid, retinol palmitate and vitamins A and C, among others. The product contains no fragrance or preservatives. The mask exposure time is determined by the cosmetologist after assessing skin phototype and sensitivity.
We use this treatment for 2 indications. It works a little differently in each of them — below we describe exactly what it does in each case.
Cosmelan does not remove pigmentation with energy — instead, it inhibits the enzyme responsible for melanin production. For recurring pigmentation, or a tendency towards it, this is the only method that helps guard against new spots forming, not just correct existing ones — though it does require a consistent home-care routine.
02With melasma, inhibiting melanin production matters more than removing what has already formed — because the problem is recurrent and hormonal. That is why Cosmelan is the lead treatment here, rather than one of several equally suitable options.
Unsure which indication describes your situation? See all the indications or ask during a consultation.
Cosmelan is a technologically advanced medical formula with a multi-directional depigmenting action. The timing and protocol are chosen by a specialist after a skin assessment.
6 active ingredients with high efficacy and tolerability
inhibits DOPA-tautomerase and eumelanin formation
antioxidants, collagen stimulation and cellular renewal
sun protection and an ingredient that accelerates epidermal renewal
The publications below concern the active ingredients and treatment strategies for melasma and pigmentation that Cosmelan-type depigmentation therapy is based on.
A systematic review and meta-analysis of RCTs demonstrated the efficacy of azelaic acid in melasma treatment, comparable with hydroquinone.
Albzea et al., Cureus 2023 · PubMed →A narrative review describes an effective approach to melasma combining topical agents (including azelaic acid and retinoids), chemical peels and rigorous photoprotection.
Piętowska et al., IJERPH 2022 · PubMed →A Delphi consensus of international experts confirms that melasma treatment requires a long-term plan combining topical therapy with sun protection.
Sarkar et al., JEADV 2026 · PubMed →The cited studies concern active ingredients and treatment strategies for melasma/pigmentation, not a specific product. The number of treatments is determined by a specialist; results vary from person to person and depend on the type and depth of the pigmentation.
After a health history interview and skin analysis, the cosmetologist thoroughly cleanses and degreases the skin, then applies the Cosmelan 1 mask to the entire face. The mask stays on the skin for 3 to 12 hours (depending on skin type, phototype and goal), after which the patient washes it off themselves at home. Two days later, the home-care phase with Cosmelan 2 cream begins.
A health history interview and assessment of the type of pigmentation, ruling out contraindications.
Removing sebum for better penetration of the active substances.
Applied in the clinic; 3–12 hours of exposure, washed off at home.
Cream applied twice daily for 2 weeks, then as maintenance — as directed.
The Cosmelan home-care phase is an essential part of the therapy. During this time the skin can be sensitive, red and lightly flaking — this is an expected reaction. Consistent protection and strict adherence to your specialists guidance are essential.
A high-factor sunscreen every day; avoid sun exposure and sunbeds — photoprotection determines the result.
Use moisturising creams and gentle cleansers that do not damage the skin barrier.
Stop using retinol and acids outside the protocol; do not exfoliate the skin mechanically.
Warmth, mild stinging and flaking are normal; if symptoms are severe, contact your specialist.
The full effect comes from completing both phases and using Cosmelan 2 regularly.
Educational information. Detailed guidance is provided by your specialist; results and the course of treatment vary from person to person.
The price includes the in-clinic treatment with the Cosmelan 1 mask and the home-care product. The number of supporting treatments depends on the type and depth of the pigmentation. We agree the therapy plan during a consultation.
„Wonderful staff. The lady answered all my questions. The treatment itself was carried out very professionally, in a lovely atmosphere." (translated from Polish)
Aleksandra · 2022review from Booksy„The BHA acid treatment was my first experience with this type of skincare, and I am pleased with it. My skin looks healthier, is less oily, and inflammation heals faster. A perfect balance between results and gentleness." (translated from Polish)
Gertruda Oczkowska · 2026review from Google„A nice selection of chemical peels, modern methods. I recommend it." (translated from Polish)
Halina Porada · 2024review from GoogleEvery case is assessed individually by the cosmetologist during the consultation interview. The main contraindications:
Cosmelan is a medical mesoestetic depigmentation therapy that regulates melanin production — it brightens pigmentation, evens out skin tone and lowers the risk of new spots forming. It consists of an in-clinic mask (Cosmelan 1) and a home-care phase with Cosmelan 2 cream.
Yes. Cosmelan is one of the most widely used protocols for melasma and chloasma — it works by inhibiting tyrosinase and controlling melanin overproduction. In hormonal melasma it can be a safer choice than aggressive light-based methods; a specialist decides on the right approach.
Two days after washing off the mask, you start using Cosmelan 2 cream — initially twice daily for 2 weeks, then once a day. The cream controls melanin production and locks in the depigmentation effect. This is a key part of the therapy.
Cosmelan is a therapy using melanin-inhibiting preparations, especially effective for melasma. Laser works with light and is well suited to sun-induced and vascular pigmentation. The methods can be combined — the choice depends on the type and depth of the pigmentation.
During the home-care phase, the skin may be sensitive, red and lightly flaking, and a feeling of warmth may occur. This is an expected reaction. Intensive moisturising and high SPF protection, as directed, are essential.
The price of Cosmelan therapy starts from 1800 zł and includes the in-clinic treatment and the home-care product. We agree the exact quote and therapy plan during a consultation; you will find the full price list on our pricing page.
Treatments at Velvet Skin Clinic are performed by certified cosmetologists with many years of experience in laser therapy, hi-tech devices and skin care treatments. After a consultation, we match the method and the specialist to your skin and your goal.








00-116 Warsaw · opposite the Palace of Culture and Science
tel. 500 53 30 30
The publications we base this treatment page on — with PMID identifiers and an assessment of the strength of evidence.